Part 6, Island Sights
During our stay at the Long Island Bonefishing Lodge, we lost one entire day of fishing to 30 knot winds, courtesy of a wicked cold front that enveloped the southeast Atlantic seaboard, spilled down into Bahamas.
Thankfully the guide commandeered the lodge’s car and took us for a tour of the island. Our first stop was the Long Island Museum in Deadman’s, where the history and culture of the island is on display. It is a small museum, but well-worth seeing.
On the Atlantic side, south of the settlement of Scrub Hill and north of Clarence Town, we next visited a natural phenomenon know around the world as Dean’s Blue Hole. Dean’s is the world’s deepest blue hole, descending some 663 feet straight down. Like a liquid eye, it gazes up out of the surrounding sand with an intense cobalt stare. It is an amazing sight.
Twice a year the world championship freedivers converge here to test their skill. Long Island legend William Trubridge is one of the very best, having descended to 282 feet without the use of fins. An incredible feat.
In Clarence Town, the island’s capital, we saw the twin churches of St. Paul’s
Anglican Church, and Peter’s & Paul’s Catholic Church both designed a hundred years ago by Father Jerome Hawes, who was also a trained architect. Later he moved to nearby Cat Island, where he built a Hermitage on Bahama’s highest point, Mount Alvernia. There he spent his finally 17 years.
On the ride back, we stopped at Max’s Conch Bar and Grill, one of the most famous bars in the Bahamas. Run by Gary Ritchie (Max) and his wife Liz, this fun zone sits aside the road under a thatched roof with plenty of cold Bahamian beer on hand.
Not interested in a cold Kalik? No problem. Max is adept at mixing up some killer concoctions. One or two of these mysterious libations will have you forgetting your troubles’mon. Along with powerful potions, Max’s is also well-known for serving up good food – ranging from a wide selection of conch dishes, to fish, chicken and jerk pork.