Review : Refurbished Nikon D3200

Posted on October 8, 2016 by Ed Mitchell

It turns out my heavy cold is actually the damn flu!. Hence I’m still not on the water. Oh well, that’s life. But we can use this down time to review a fantastic little camera. A refurbished Nikon D3200.

For a god’s age, a Nikon D200 was my trusty fishing camera. It rode in many a boat and went down many a beach. But it finally succumbed to a rogue wave in the kayak. I was bummed out. Of course, my first inclination was to replace it with another D200. They were out of production by then, so I was looking at used ones. That’s when I came across this refurbished Nikon D3200 online.

Refurbished NikonD3200

Refurbished Nikon D3200

Right off I noticed that the D3200 had a plastic body, not the metal “pro” body on the D200. One strike against it. But the D3200 boasted a whopping 24 megapixel sensor! (The D200 had 10 megapixels.) On top of it the D3200 shot 1080 video. (The D200 had no video capability). At that point the D200 was looking like yesterday donuts.

Was I worried about the refurbished part? A little. Had never done that before. But was a refurbished camera any more prone to failure than a used camera? Na. In fact you could make a case that a camera right from the factory was apt to be better. And besides, it came with a 90 day warranty.

Refurbished Nikon D3200 Controls

Refurbished Nikon D3200 Controls

In the end I bought the refurbished D3200. Glad I did. It is a high performance camera at a rock bottom price. (On the internet for $250) There are a couple of things to note, however. As seen in the above photo, unlike a “pro” series Nikon DSLR, the D3200 has controls on the right side, but no additional quick controls on the left. This slows down accessing some menu items. I haven’t found this to be an issue,however. Second, be aware that the D3200 will not auto focus some older lenses. For example, the D3200 works with my Nikon AF-S lenses, but not my older Nikon D series. So be sure to check auto-focus lens compatibility before purchase.

Tokina wide angel 11-16 DX II

Tokina Wide Angle 11-16mm Pro DX II

For a little extra money, you can buy a refurbished D3200 with a “kit” wide angle. Sweet deal that. Me, I opted for something far better – a Tokina 11-16mm AT-X Pro DX II. (older Tokina DX lens will not auto focus with the 3200)  Okay, okay, its $500. But this puppy  optically out performs $800 wide angle lenses.  Teamed with the D3200’s humongous, high-horse power, 24 mexapixel sensor, its a dynamite package. Great image quality. You gotta love that.

PS. The D3200 body weights a mere 18 ounces, making it very light in the hand. Nice. Compare that to my D700 body at 38 ounces!

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S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum

Posted on October 4, 2016 by Ed Mitchell

S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum.

Well a bad cold has kept me off the water over over a week. So no fishing reports. But what do you say – lets talk about a classic revolver – the S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum.

S&W model 19-2 .357 Combat Magnum

S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum

The model 19 .357 combat magnum first came available in 1957 and stayed in continuous production until November of 1999, a 42 year long testimony to their popularity. It is a traditional double-action 6-shot revolver, built on a K frame. Mine, in the photo above, is a 4″ model 19-2, built in 1966. I bought it second hand to use in my NRA training classes, where it proved to be an outstanding choice.

S&W model 19 .357 Combat Magnum

S&W Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum

S&W used the term  Combat Magnum to refer to a magnum firearm, suitable for police or military use. That typically meant a 4″ barrel, ramp front sight, adjustable rear sights, large target grips, and a short-action hammer. Consequently this firearm was the pick of a great many local policemen, highway patrolmen from California to Connecticut, as well as the FBI, Secret Service, and US Customs. In fact the Model 19 may well be the most widely used and popular law enforcement firearm ever made.

Early Model 19s had a lot of additional feature, many of which are no longer available. My

Pinned barrel, recessed cylinders, grooved backstrap

Pinned barrel, recessed cylinders, grooved backstrap

blued firearm has a pinned barrel, recessed cylinders, square butt frame, ribbed barrel, grooved backstrap, grooved forestrap, wide serrated target trigger, auto trigger stop, and large target Goncalo Alves grips with diamond logo insert.

In its time, the Model 19 offered an ideal combination of firepower and portability (36 ounces empty). It balances well in the hand, is quick on target, and controllable. In addition, like all 357 magnums, it is an extremely versatile gun capable of firing 38 special, 38 special plus, and 357 magnum. And on top of all that, I find it to be a good looking firearm too. Don’t you?

Is the Model 19 gone? Well not quite. In 2014, Smith & Wesson once again began offering the Model 66 – a stainless steel version of the good old Model 19 .357 Combat Magnum.

“Be a Safe and Responsible Gun Owner”

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A Simran for Redfish

Posted on September 14, 2016 by Ed Mitchell

A Simran for Redfish

On Andros Island, some twenty years ago, a bonefish fly was developed  to match local shrimp. Called the Simran, it has since gained a reputation as a proven killer. And today many bonefish addicts consider it one of their favorite patterns.

Overall, it is a homely beast, and tied in a slightly unorthodox way. For one thing the dumbbell weight is not up by the hook eye, like a Crazy Charlie or Gotcha. Rather the weight is well back on the shank. Second, the tail of the fly curves up the hook bend (or perhaps you would say downward). Why these less common approaches? Both of them tend to roll the fly over; forcing it to ride hook up. Which makes the fly far less likely to snag when bounced along the bottom. (Frankly getting a fly to ride hook up isn’t all that easy. Truth is many of the patterns we assume do, don’t always perform well.)

A Simran for Redfish

A Simran for Redfish

I want to try a Simram for “reds” here in Florida’s Charlotte Harbor. But obviously, some changes are required. The original pattern is light tan. Great in the gin clear water of Andros, but not here. My waters are typically much darker. And because of it, I need a brighter shrimp color. Next, I want rubber legs. No question. When the Simran was created rubber legs weren’t in fashion. Today, that is not the case. We all know rubber legs help a fly’s appeal. Hell you can improve nearly any flats fly by adding them.

Simran for Redfish

A Simran for Redfish

Well, here it is my attempt, a pink Simran, with rubber legs. The fly pattern calls for rabbit fur. I had none in pink on hand, however. So I substituted pink Craft Fur Select. Should be Okay. The body is just built up white thread with a coat of glue. My hook is a size 4#, Mustad C70SD. The yellow dumbbell eye is a medium, 1/30 ounce. (That may be a bit heavy; we’ll see.) All said and done, it doesn’t look too bad. Will have to try it out soon.

Update  Took a few casts with the Simran. It landed hook up every time. Nice. Tracked straight and looked good in the water too.

 

Posted in Flies and Fly Tying, Fly Fishing in Salt Water | Leave a comment

An Unweighted Crab Fly

Posted on September 1, 2016 by Ed Mitchell

Crabs live on the bottom; we all know that. So its no surprise that most crab flies are heavily weighted. In fact some are even a bear to cast. But, hey you want the crab fly to get down fast. Right? But does that mean an unweighted crab fly is no good? Hardly.

Unweighted Crab Fly

An Unweighted Crab Fly

When fishing in skinny water for “tailing” redfish (or bonefish) you’ll likely need an unweighted crab fly. Why? The fly has to land silently or you’ll spook the fish.  And a weighted crab fly invariably lands with a “kerplunk”. What about the sink rate you ask? Given the water is apt to be no more that knee deep, you simply give the unweighted fly a second to settle before starting your retrieve. Not a problem. If you’re fishing in water between knee and thigh deep, you add a bead-chain eye or a small lead-eye to speed up the descent. But avoid a very heavy fly, unless you can lead a cruising fish by at least five feet or more.

Unweighted Crab Fly

An Unweighted Crab Fly

I’m going to use this fly on “tailing reds”. It rides a size 2# hook with no added weight. The tail is Craft Fur Select. The body is Woolly Chenille. It has black “EP” mono crab eyes. Since “reds” often “tail” in turtle grass, I’ve added a 30lb mono weed guard to avoid getting snagged up at the last moment. I hate when that happens.

Yes, the fly has rubber legs too. (Don’t leave home without them.) In the past, I attached rubber legs back by the bend of the fly. Now I always tie them in towards the eye, for two reasons. This spreads the legs and allows for more action. (Sounds like a sex flick) Second, after a fish or two the legs tend to break off. Tied in at the eye, they are easy to replace.

Lastly, I’ve deliberately make this fly to look both crab and shrimp-like. In other words its more impressionistic, than realistic. In the end I’ll let the fish decide.

 

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A Diamondglass 8-foot, 4-weight fly rod: Part Two

Posted on August 24, 2016 by Ed Mitchell

Part Two: Okay, once again we’re focused on a Diamondglass 8-foot, 4-weight fly rod. In the previous post, we examined its basics makeup, including reel seat, grip, wraps and so on. And we also took a brief look at the Diamondback Rod Company’s history. In this post we’ll be checking out how the rod casts.

Diamonglass 4wt

For this field test, I loaded a 4-weight Cortland 444 double taper. (Irony there. Cortland likely owned Diamondback when this rod was built.) Well, surprise, surprise. As soon as I got the rod outside, I realized it cast like no other 4-weight “glass” rod I own. What’s the difference? Its “faster”, able to throw a very tight loop, with ease. Truth is, given how quickly the tip “recovers” from every casting stroke, you might assume this was a graphite rod. Rod taper could be part of it, but I believe the key reason lies elsewhere. All my rods are made from E-glass; Diamondglass rods are S2 glass. I’m told S2 is stronger, stiffer, and lighter than traditional E-glass. And capable of producing a “faster” action as well. (Epic fly rods immediately come to mind. These popular New Zealand “glass” rods are S2, and widely touted as “Fast Glass”)

Diamondglass 8-foot, 4-weight fly rod

Diamondglass 8-foot, 4-weight fly rod

The Diamondglass 8-foot, 4-weight did a fair job casting 3.5 feet of fly line plus a 9-foot leader (no fly). At 6 feet of fly line, things improved. A tight loop formed, better turning over the leader. With over 12 feet of fly line the rod got silky smooth, just loafing around, flexing mainly in the upper third. At that point I noticed two things, however. The Diamondglass created virtually no “shock wave” in the forward cast, a testimony to the tip’s rapid recovery. Second, the rod was deadly accurate. I mean it.

Eighteen feet of fly line flexed the Diamondglass 8-foot,4-weight fly rod down into the midsection. It felt like a “glass” rod, and the loop started to open too. After that I extended the cast out gradually to 50 feet without problem. Space restrictions forced me to end there.

What’s the bottom line here? If you want a traditional, full-flex “glass” rod, this Diamondglass isn’t your baby. Perhaps a 5-weight line would change your mind. Even if you require a rod ideal for working in extremely close with 8x tippets, I’d say a softer fly rod better suits you. Look elsewhere. (Note: a fly line with a very short front taper would aid this rod’s short-range casting performance.)

On the other hand, if you’d like a rod that bridges the gap between traditional “glass’ and modern graphite, Diamondglass delivers elements of both worlds. (Diamondglass is not unlike the earliest graphite rods back in the 1970’s, well before the modulus wars hit.) The rod throws a tighter loop than any E-glass I’ve seen. Yet it is not a stiff, tip-action graphite rod. It is pin-point accurate. It is apt to handle indicator nymph rigs better than an E-glass rod, be more useful on windy days, and more effective at mending line. All of this while still maintaining a “glass-like” feel. Lastly if you fish where light lines and large fish meet, this rod has the backbone to turn a big trout. Honestly, I’m impressed by its performance.

Interested in reading about other Winston Fiberglass  fly rods?  Check out these links. Winston 2wt Stalker, Winston 5wt , Winston 6wt, Winston 8wt, Winston 1owt, Winston 12wt

Posted in Fiberglass Fly Rods, Fly Rods, Gear | 2 Comments