Rescuing a 1987 17′ Aquasport: Part 4

Yes, progress on this project has been slow. You can blame the awful weather for that. It rained all but 3 days in July and the total accumulation makes this the second or third rainiest July on record. Get you some of that craziness.

In the previous post , my son cut away the old damaged transom. This time he and I began building a replacement. This is the only structural step in the entire rescue and likely the toughest and most complicated part too. After this, things should, at least in theory, move forward much faster. Time will tell.

The first step in creating a new transom is to fashion a temporary outside wall. You might think of it as a dam to hold the new layers of fiberglass cloth in place. The “dam” was cut from PVC and painted with a “release” coating to which the fiberglass resin would not stick. And then the dam was clamped to the rear of the boat.

Making the PVC Dam

The Dam clamped to the hull and a new drain put in place

Next the seams between the dam and the existing hull were sealed with a thick mixture of epoxy resin and chopped fiberglass. And at the same time a new hull drain of 1″ PVC tubing was put in place. While all this was drying. Three pieces of heavy duty fiberglass cloth were cut. Each one is slightly longer then the previous piece. If look in the photograph above you will see three marker lines indicating where each layer will end. The idea is to form a strong tapered edge.

Heavy epoxy resin mixed with chopped glass to fill the seams

Roll of heavy duty fiberglass cloth

Then the first cloth layer was draped in place and soaked in epoxy resin, being careful to rub the resin in uniformly so no air pockets formed. Quickly a second layer of cloth was added with resin and eventually a third layer. All of this had to be done before the resin set up. Messy work. Not easy for two guys who have never done it before.

Checking to see if the cloth pieces properly fit

The following day my son removed the dam. Bingo the exterior of the new transom was there to behold. Looking pretty good. Sure it needs some cosmetic work, but that’s no problem.

With the dam removed the exterior of the new transom is revealed

We’re still only halfway done with the transom. Traditionally most transoms had a plywood core. In fact the original was 1.25″ of plywood. Instead, my son will use a 1.5″ thick piece of Coosa board, which is lighter and stronger than plywood and will never rot. The Coosa goes inside up against the first three layers of glass cloth, and then three additional layers of fiberglass cloth and resin are added over the board. In essence the Coosa core ends up sandwiched between six layer of fiberglass cloth. Should be rigid.

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A Gene Edward’s Model 32# Fiberglass Fly Rod

A Gene Edward’s Model 32# Fiberglass Fly Rod

Gene Edwards Model 32# Fiberglass Rod

Last time we looked at a Leon Chandler Signature fly rod. This time we have a much older and rarer rod, a Gene Edwards model 32# fiberglass fly rod. It likely goes all the way back to the 1950’s – the dawn of “glass” rods in our country.

Gene (Eugene) Edwards along with his brother William (Billy) and their father Eustis, were the Holy Trinity of bamboo rod builders – among the best to ever split cane. Their reputation was worldwide, and their cane beauties are still sought after today. Best I can figure, later in his career, Gene decided to add “glass” rods to their lineup. It was not unheard for cane rod makers to do so. Heddon make “glass” rods right into the 1960’s. Payne made them too.

I don’t know who supplied “glass” blanks to Edwards. To my eye it is a translucent E Glass phenolic resin rod bearing some resemblance to the J. Kennedy Fisher blanks Winston used. The reel seat is  down-locking with a cork insert. Just forward of the grip, in gold lettering, is written Gene Edwards 32# and nothing else.  The rod is 7.5′ in length and 2-piece, sporting a carboloy stripping guide, wire snake guides, a tiptop, and a hook-keeper. All wraps are brown, tipped with orange. The rod weighs 3.8 ounces. It has a metal ferrule which seems firmly connected.

Edwards likely finished these fiberglass rods in his Mt. Carmel, Connecticut shop. They were budget friendly and didn’t sport the same high-end hardware used on the cane rods. They were sold in the shop, through sporting good dealers such as Abercrombie, and likely through hardware stores too.

Given the rod’s age and the fact it doesn’t belong to me, I have decided not to cast it. The rod is not marked for a line, but I bet it is a 5 or 6wt. (HEH or HDH) This rod doesn’t have an original tube (doubt it came with one), and the sock may not be original as well. Overall, the rod is showing its age. The varnish over the wraps has dried out. One snake guide is missing.  And the grip has a thumb groove, which may not be factory. Still this rod could be refinished into a fine-looking, historically significant rod. Below you see it with a reel of the same vintage.

Gene Edwards model 32# with an Ocean City Reel

Hope you enjoyed seeing this fiberglass rod. I know I enjoyed learning about it. If you have any interest in acquiring it, contact me at my home email and I will put you in touch with the owner. I’m doing this as a favor only.Interested in reading about other fiberglass  fly rods?  Check out these links. Winston 2wt Stalker, A Cabela 50th Anniversary 3wt, Kabuto 3wtDiamondglass 4wt. Leon Chandler Signature 4/5wtWinston 4wt Retro,  Winston 5wt , Winston 6wtCabela 7/8wt, Winston 8wtWinston 1owtWinston 12wt ,

 

Posted in Fiberglass Fly Rods, Fly Rods | 2 Comments

A Leon Chandler Signature 7.5′, 4/5wt. Fiberglass Fly Rod

A Leon Chandler Signature 7.5′, 4/5wt. Fiberglass Fly Rod

Leon Chandler Signature 7.5′ 4/5 wt Glass Rod

When his father died, a friend of mine inherited a number of fly rods. A few of which are fiberglass. Being a big fan of “glass”, I asked him if I could check those out.  I also asked if he would sell any. He answered yes to both questions. If you’re interested in this rod, reach me at my home email address and I will pass along his contact info. Note, I have no desire to be part of any negotiating. I’m doing this as a favor.

The first rod is a sweet little Leon Chandler 7.5′ 4/5 wt. It is in super shape. This is a 2-piece rod, with sock and Cortland tube.  The grip is 6.5″ long, cigar shaped, and tapers down fine. And get this –  the original plastic wrap is still over the cork. The reel seat is of good quality. It is single down-locking with a wood insert. The blank is dark brown with a spigot ferrule that shows no wear. There is a hook keeper, one stripping guide, 8 snakes and a tiptop. The wraps are a dull orange, tipped in red. The listed weight is 3 1/4 oz., but my digital scale reports 2.9 oz.? Now I’m never surprised when a rod is heavier than advertised, but this is first one I’ve ever come across that is lighter. So I checked it against another scale, which also reported 2.9 oz. So the jury is in.

Eon Chandler Signature 7.5′ 4/5 Fly Rod

First,  I tried the rod with a DT 4 wt. floating line. It cast the line smoothly, forming a nice loop and only a single tiny shock wave. At 25′ of line it felt wonderfully at home. Without a lot of fuss it then reached 35′ plus leader. Nice. In close, it turned over a leader with just 5 ‘ of fly line. Good, solid performance.

Next I used a DT 5 wt. floating line. Naturally, it loaded the rod deeper. It formed a tight loop and happily went out to 25’. Then reached out to 35′ without a bunch of effort. In close, I would say it is a touch better than the 4wt. So which line did I prefer? The 5wt. It gave the rod more authority.

Overall this rod will be a fine companion on small to medium streams.  Blessed with progressive action, it is also a versatile rod, with the much sought after “glass” feel. With a fish on, I bet it is a royal hoot. Lastly, like all short, light rods, heavy reels should be avoided. They throw the outfit out of balance. Next time around we’ll look at a 7.5′ fiberglass wand built by the Gene Edwards Rod Company, legendary for their bamboo rods.

Interested in reading about other fiberglass  fly rods?  Check out these links. Winston 2wt Stalker, A Cabela 50th Anniversary 3wt, Kabuto 3wt, Diamondglass 4wt. Winston 4wt RetroWinston 5wt , Winston 6wt, Cabela 7/8wt, Winston 8wtWinston 1owtWinston 12wt ,

Posted in Fiberglass Fly Rods, Fly Rods | 2 Comments

Thoughts on Wading Staffs

Thoughts on Wading Staffs

Wading Staff

Falling in a fast moving river is dangerous business, my friend, especially in the colder parts of the year. And for that reason, the older I get the more I rely on my trusty wading staff. It offers a serious measure of safety, one that you should never ignore.

My wading staff is a 30 year old 59″ FolStaff with a carbide tip. It is constructed from 3/4″ aircraft grade aluminum, making it very strong and rust free. At one time FolStaff was pretty much the only manufacturer of quality wading staffs. Today, however, you’ll find staffs from many companies including Orvis, Simms, and REC.

My staff came with a leather holster and a 1/4 -20 thread on top for a camera. The staff folds down to about 10″.  And it has an internal bungee chord for quick deployment. But lets stop right there. Always store this type of staff fully extended to take pressure off the bungee and thereby prolong its life. Always.

Other types of staffs. Wood staffs have been popular for many years and I have owned several. Ash, maple, oak. They are cheap, attractive and can be DIY. But wood has a couple of down sides. Too often they are not long enough for proper support. In time they often absorb water and split. Typically they do not have a metal tip for good purchase on the bottom. (By the way rubber tips on a wading staff are near useless on a rocky bottom, much like rubber sole waders.) And wood doesn’t retract, making it a nuisance to travel with. Another commonly seen alternative is a used ski pole. Why not? They are cheap and have a metal tip. As a result people see them as a real deal. In my opinion, however, you should never use them.  They weren’t designed to bear your full body weight. So if you are suddenly forced to lean into one heavily, it is apt to bend and snap, dropping you in the drink. Beware.

Uses: Wading staffs are useful both in and out of the water.  Staffs are great for descending a steep hillside to the stream. Or navigating a slippery trail. They can also help you retrieve a fly off a tree limb. Help you clear a path though briars. Help you retrieve your forceps when dropped in the stream. Help you ward off a nuisance animal. Even break a car window in an emergency situation. And mine doubles as a camera monopod, allowing me to steady shots with telephotos or long exposures. Get you some of that.

Wading Staff as a Camera Monopod

Lastly, be sure to secure your wading staff to a sturdy wader belt. I like the Fish Pond Rio Grande belt. At some point I may offer tips on how to best use a wading staff in the stream. But enough for now.

Wading Staff on a Wader Belt

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The AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 ED Wide Angle

The AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 ED Wide Angle

You may be wondering why I’m not posting more about fishing adventures. Well its the crazy weather. It has been whacko to say the least. Heat waves followed by sudden drops in temperature. Recently it rained 13 out of 14 days, with more rain coming. Believe me the rivers and streams are swollen, out of their banks and near flood stage. A sorry state of affairs, and summer is half gone! Damn.

AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 ED

So hey, lets discuss photography instead. And in particular lets turn our attention to wide angles, the most important lens an angler can own.  Back in my film days, I replied heavily on a Nikkor 20mm F2.8. Not bad glass, but nowhere near the finest wide lens I have ever owned. That crown goes to the mighty AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 ED. A legendary optic.

AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 Ed

This Nikkor is the widest zoom Nikon makes. The focal length range is near perfect for both close in work and landscapes. In top of that, it is FX, full frame 35mm. (Mates perfectly with my old Nikon D700) Yes you can use it on DX format too, but screw that. DX  has never equaled FX. The AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8 ED holds a constant F2.8 maximum aperture through its entire focal range. A useful feature. The glass has a superb Nano-crystal coating to reduce flare. Voila! The images are juicy – stunning, sharp, and saturated, with far less spherical aberration and distortion than you would expect.  Get you some of that!

Is the AF-S Nikkor 14-24 mm F2.8 all strawberries and cream? No. The curved front element will not accept a screw-in filter.  And this baby is a behemoth. It weights a hair over 2 pounds. You heard right, a full kilogram. (my Nikkor 20mm F2.8 weighted 9.8 ounces) And its not cheap; around $1800 new. Get scared off? Cowboy up dude. What you’re getting is a killer image maker. Killer, killer, killer.

Posted in Photography | 2 Comments